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Deer Isle Koster "KDI" Kit Version

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Hull #3 of the KDI will soon be cut on the CNC machine and built. The computer model is a refined version of the first two built out west for designer Bruce Elfstrom. The modeling was done in collaboration with 3D CAD extraordinaire, Dan Clarke.

We will keep folks posted as the first kit version is cut, built, and released to the market sometime this Fall.


Deblois Street Dory

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Now that Deer Isle Koster kits are shipping and and I have moved shop back to the home based-shop, I am enjoying some new found time to carry on with the newest, refined version of the Deblois Street Dory.

The changes are mainly in the lining off of the hull and the fact that the hull is now modeled in 3D CAD allowing for precut parts to be made and a lot of tweaking to get the lines "eye sweet".

The DSD was featured in the latest Maine Island Trail newsletter and there may be a follow up article this winter after I get started on this build.

I am very pleased with how she is coming out! What do you think?



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I am still active designing and building boat kits. The currrent project is still the Deblois Street Dory.

I post often on my Facebook page

www.facebook.com/clintchaseboats

You can see up-to-date progress on my projects there.

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Making of the ultimate sail-and-oar boat: The Deblois Street Dory

For the past few years, I have been working on a dory design, the Deblois Street Dory. Hull #1 was built and launched in 2010. The builder/owner sails and rows often during the season in Casco Bay, Muscongus Bay, and Penobscot Bays on the Maine Coast. Here is one of my favorite shots:


The idea was to draw a dory that was somewhat updated in the style of todays recreational sail-and-oar boat. She has a little more stability initially than a typical Swampscott. She'll be solid or plywood planked, with flotation chambers under fore and aft (below sheer) decks, and will come in kit form or be built from scratch with a plans set. There will be half-a-dozen rig choices as well as a inboard engine well. The Maine Island Trail was a consideration in designing the boat: I wanted to be able to camp cruise the trail in a purpose built boat that rowed and sailed well. This first hull was the huge success I needed to be ready to put in the huge commitment necessary for the next phase: drawing the boat in CAD. I started with the hull and getting the lines just right. This takes awhile for me because I have a very clear vision of what I want and won't settle for anything less. 



I am now finishing the computer modeling phase of the interior and strongback. The original hand drawn plans were reproduced in a CAD program called Rhino. The boat hull, interior, hydrostatics, sail rigs, and strongback are all modeled in 3D. This will be used to make the layout drawings for the plans and the 2D CAD drawings needed to cut the parts on a CNC machine. Here is a screenshot of the interior model:




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The Deer Isle Koster (KDI) is a 14' double-ender that we kitted and have available for sale. The KDI was originally designed by Bruce Elfstrom, a friend and fellow boat nerd who lives and does business in Lyme, CT. He runs a very cool company doing off-road vehicle training and teambuilding all over the world (www.overlandexperts.com). A couple years ago he approached about having his KDI kitted so it would be accessible to more people new to boatbuilding. He knew he had a winner of a design and we have proven that true. The first two built, hull #1 and 2, built for his daughters, live and sail in Maine. Hull #3 is being built by another Father/daughter team in Portland, Maine, Steven and Celie Bauer.
Portland, Maine team building hull #3!
You can read about their story on their WoodenBoat Forum thread.

Hull #5 was just launched off in Washington state outside Seattle. The boat turned out great and sea trials have gone well for her builder.

KDI in Washington state

The photo below shows one of the changes made to the interior. The main bulkhead under the foredeck is open so gear can be stowed or small children! As you can see there is space under the deck for things like anchor, pumps and other equipment, leaving the cockpit free of clutter. Being a double-ender, it is critical that the boat trims on the water line for best performance. This boat is rigged with a standing lug + jib. The other option is a balance lugsail without jib. The boat will sail quite well without a jib, perhaps with slightly less windward ability. However, the balance lug will be simpler and more efficient off the wind that the lug and jib option. This is because the single big sail will provide more power than the jib, because the jib will be blanketed when sailing downwind (plus the standing lug twists more when sheeted out and the balance lug boom stays more level when sheeted out). Therefore, you will sometimes you hear of the balance lug as a "self-vanging" rig.

KDI sailing with standing lug and jib rig.
See my ad in the Small Boats 2012 annual issue in the advertising section under 'plans and kits'. The KDI kit is available and ready to cut. I'd love to help you get into one of these great boats.



Update on the Deblois Street Dory

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A couple months ago I was entering the final stages of modeling the Deblois St Dory. I am excited to report that the work is complete and a plans package, full size patterns, and CNC cut kits are now ready to deliver!

This boat has been designed unlike any traditional, Swampscott Dory I know of. It has been a few years of hand drawing -- before I entered the world of CAD -- then building a 1/4 scale model, drafting final plans, and the building of hull #1. Then some time passed, sea trials were completed, and my training in CAD went up a few levels! So, then the DSD started getting input into the computer. The latest version of the CAD system Rhino came out -- Rhino 5 -- and I was able to efficiently finish the DSD in this advanced piece of software:


One of the great advantages of modeling a boat to such an extent is the ability to work of how everything fits together. All parts of the hull are fit together in 3-D space then the model is taken apart piece by piece and made 2D. These 2D drawings become full size patterns and the kits that are available for my boats. Even for something simple like the tholepins, having them modeled helps see how the sizing of the gunwales and the installation of the tholepins will work out in advance.


I have modeled 8 different sail rigs for the DSD. All parts can be CNC cut or supplied as full size patterns with a package of plans that includes 13 sheets of drawings, a manual, hardware and lumber lists, and direct support from me build the boat. So far two DSD plans sets and patterns have been shipped off.

I love this boat. In an article in Maine Island Trail, I said 

"If I could only own one boat – and I hope that never happens -- I would choose a dory for its simplicity and purity of form and function. And when I am daysailing to MITA islands or cruising the trail, the last thing I want is to dread having to row when the wind dies. I want a boat that is as pleasurable to move by oars as it is by sail or motor. And I want it to be a beautiful boat that can be built by a total amateur and used to explore the coast of Maine."

If you want to be at the helm of your own Deblois Street Dory, please contact me. Visit my webpage to learn more and see pricing. Cheers! ---Clint






A Fabulous 15-foot Rowboat

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One of the most unique aspects of the St. Lawrence River Skiff (SLRS) is its hull shape which we believe derives from the bark canoes, at least partly. Both hull forms feature a very fine entry and exit to the waterlines. However, on nearly all the St. Lawrence River Skiffs, their after sections are finer than the forward sections.
The bow of an 18-footer, Annie.

Many rowboats show the opposite, with the aft sections being fuller. The reasoning behind this SLRS hull form regards how the boat trims when under power (oar power, of course). Once the boat is up to speed, the aft part of the hull settles into the water creating a skeg-type effect. A skeg improves tracking of the hull through the water. But by making the hull itself behave as a skeg, we eliminate the extra wetted surface area (WSA in designer speak) that a skeg creates. Any rower knows one tenet of making a rowboat fast: reduce the wetted surface area! This is one reason the SLRS glides along effortlessly with a single stroke of an oar, creating a feeling of flying.

Here is a shot showing the Fry 15 being stripped up. We built the Fry Skiff in 2013 at WoodenBoat using strip-composite construction. A builder by the name of Fry built these circa 1910 in Clayton, NY. The first shot (left) is the bow. The second (right) is the stern view.


You can see (right) how the strips are fairing into the stern with slight concave curvature even before we've stripped to the designed waterline. The strips are not showing this hollow curvature quite yet in the bow (left). This 15-foot model, shows a pronounced hollow even for a SLRS, partly because the boat is pretty short for a Skiff. (In fact, it is the shortest I'd recommend for fast rowing. I chose the Fry 15-footer because it is going to be the cartopper in my catalog.)




So this is the 'fineness' or 'hollow' in the stern that I am asserting is a classic feature of the SLRS hull form, making the it such a slippery, fast rowboat.

Two other SLRS's that I am working with, the Bobby at 20 1/2' (which was strip-built in 2012) and Clotilde at 18', are true double-enders, meaning they are symmetrical. So one end is not finer than the other, but their waterlines still show a strong hollow fore and aft. Clotilde is unique because its hull is fairly full in the ends compared to the other SLRS, which has me interested because it may be a faster boat and better in a seaway. So I plan to also model this hull and develop mold kits for Clotilde as well. Bobby mold kits are available.

For the first time, the Fry Skiff is newly updated and ready to cut as a mold kit. She strips up perfectly and produces a hull that is fairer than any hand-lofted set of lines could hope to produce, I dare say. The molds receive a roundovered edge so the soft cedar is not dented. A dado is routed into the molds to make a place for squeeze clamps to hold strips in place. The stems are laminated on fore-aft molds. An alignment batten slots all the molds together in place to ensure squareness and proper spacing. The kit is $750 which includes plans package and the molds.

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We are excited to announce the cutting of the first Jewell kit of many in the US and Canada. This kit is going not to an amateur but to French & Webb boatbuilders in Belfast, Maine to be custom built for a customer in Norway, Maine. Stay tuned for construction photos!


The Jewell Project: Virtual Reality becomes Physical Reality

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These days I spend more time building boats in the computer than in real life. So, it is highly satisfying when I see a boat becoming the real thing.

A Mainer from Norway, Maine has commissioned his own Jewell. It is being built from my kit by French & Webb in Belfast, Maine for a summer launch.

After years of planning and design, we have gone from this virtual set up:



To this set up "in the flesh":


All bulkheads are CNC cut plywood. Their shapes come directly from the model you see in the screenshot. When designs are made in 3D CAD, the objects are actually lofted in full-size. In other words, the model is not a "scale-model" but rather a full-size model in 1:1. Once modeled, each bulkhead is simply flattened onto a virtual 2D surface and the outlines are duplicated and nested on 4x8 virtual sheets of plywood. The CNC cutter than programs the machine to follow theses lines and voila! a bulkhead is directly cut.No lofting by hand, no tracing lines onto wood, cutting with a jigsaw (but not too close to the line!), and high accuracy and repeat ability. The downside, I suppose, is that some feel satisfaction cutting their own parts. But even pro builders know their is more satisfaction in getting a boat launched in good time and greater accuracy. This Jewell will be a 3-month build. Lofting and cutting your own parts would result in another month of work.

Keep track of the Jewell project here, on my facebook page, or on my website.



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Last week I finally got up to the Belfast area to see Jewell. This one is the first US built hull, so it is exciting for me having spent the last couple years collaborating with the designer, Francois Vivier, to work out a boat that would be popular for our market here in the USA and Canada, be fun to sail for weekend warriors as well as families, and not be terribly complicated or expensive to build.
Jewell hull #2 under construction in Belfast, Maine.

I mentioned in the last post that sometimes when you go from virtual to physical reality with a boat design, somethings don't look or feel quite the same. But with Jewell, she is exactly as we wanted her to look and feel. The lines are great, her proportions are great, and the boat will be roomy for a 20-footer, or 19'8" to be exact. In the photo above you can see the transom. Here is one of two pieces of custom SS parts to be fabricated, the rudder housing...



Rudder head for Jewell
The bulkheads and planking in the kit went together without any fuss and all the inside components have already been check for fit. Things drop right into place on the inside. We're working out some details regarding limber holes and placement of hatches and the plans will reflect those changes. Pretty soon the rig will be going up and Jewell will sail.

Regarding sails and hardware, an extensive list has already been made based on the dozens of boats Mr. Vivier has rigged. His specialty is gaff rigged boats and, while the yawl is new for his catalog, it is one of my specialties. Sails are made by our favorite Maine sailmaker and the custom hardware like the rudderhead can also be made here in maine and shipped out to a kit builder anywhere in the US or Canada.

Email me if you are interested at boatkits@gmail.com

Changes in Website

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This July 4th break from teaching has me working in the website. I will be porting over completely to my blog. In other words, when finished www.clintchaseboatbuilder.com will lead the web surfer to this blog which will carry the same URL. I'll have pages on the blog to capture information about my kits. I look forward to the transition as it will allow me to focus on one website, which I hope will lead to more traffic.
My website may "go out" for a little while during my transition. I won't leave you high and dry like this boat in Great Bay, NH. This is not one of my kit boats!

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Jewell is progressing at French & Webb for their Maine based client who will use her on lakes and ocean. I'll be heading up to video the turnover in a week or so. The kit we cut is going together beautifully.

Here is Chris after the garboard is attached.


And the planking is done. Those patches are the scarfs that are being faired with putty. The box keel is visible, filled with lead in the forward portion.


Speaking of scarfs, they are cut on the CNC machine and come with the kits. I recently visited MultiCAM Northeast and we played. Here is a video of the morning I spent there. We cut an NC scarf.


Growing this Blog

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I've always liked black backgrounds to websites...the pictures really pop. But the lettering is not great. I'll be trying different looks.

Note the tabs along top. The boat pages from my website will be going up here.

As I make changes here and add pages, please give me feedback. Thanks!

Jewell is coming along nicely at French & Webb.

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Jewell Wrapping Up


French and Webb is in the final couple weeks of the Jewell project. I look forward to getting up to Belfast to see her. Judge for yourself: how does she look from where you sit?

Jewell nearly ready to launch. That sheer has me feeling very happy.

Rigging

The rigging is the latest project and I've been fielding some questions. Sorting out rigging takes time. My approach is to get her rigged so she is functional for sea trials. I don't spend a huge amount of time on eye splices, aesthetics, and making things perfect until sea trials are done. An example is the mizzen on Jewell. The boom is to be lashed to the sail at the clew. At the heel of the sprit is a rounded slot. A couple ways to rig this: 1) snotter line is made off to mast with a thumb cleat to locate it, then is led through slot, and aft to a cleat on the boom. 2) snotter line is made off first at slot on heel, then is led around aft side of mast (thumb cleat to locate line) and then down to a cleat on the mast. Until sea trials, I simply don't know which will work best for Jewell. So, instead of making fancy lines and splices and line whippings and the like, I'll use the same line left extra long, and use bowline knots, and hose clamps to hold cleats until I have finished sea trials. Then I'll know what works well and can finish off the rigging, paying more attention to my splicing knowing it won't change. It takes 3 seasons to dial in a new boat's rigging. So, to say things won't change is wishful thinking. I've learned a great deal from a few resources:

  • David Nichols Guide to traditional boat rigging
  • Iain Oughtred did a series of articles on sprit and lug rigs in WoodenBoat. Use the WoodenBoat Index to search for these.
  • John Leather Gaff Rig handbook

Rigging is part of the fun of designing, building, and using small boats on the coast of Maine! 



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Small Reach Regatta 2013

Sailing and Rowing Elyssa, a 22' dory in Muscongus Bay

Hog Island, Maine

This year's SRR is much anticipated. After several years at Lamoine State Park, the venue has moved to the Audubon Camp on Hog Island. I'll be crewing a 22' boat for which I built the spars, Paul Rollins built the boat, and Roger Long designed the boat. She is called a Yawldory and is named Elyssa by owner Susie Downs.

22' Yawldory Elyssa getting prepared for the 2013 Small Reach Regatta
This year we have 57 boats registered! They range from 15' to 22', all boats that can row or sail, most trailerable. Boats in my catalog that would be perfect for the SRR include the Caravelle Skiff (14'), http://clintchaseboatbuilder.blogspot.com/p/daysailers.html (14'), Deblois Street Dory (18'), and the http://clintchaseboatbuilder.blogspot.com/p/rowboats.html (17'). The Goat Island Skiff (16') is also a great choice. The key features are that the boat be safe and seaworthy, at least 14', and be able to row or sail depending on conditions.

Having Elyssa in the shop has been a great learning experience. I've wanted to gain more hours sailing a sprit-ketch rigged boat, and this will certainly satisfy that requirement. The company is great, the weather is forecast to be nearly perfect, and we have new, exciting cruising grounds to explore. Check back in a week for the report.

Location of 2013 SRR




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Report from the Small Reach Regatta 2013

Beautiful weather, wonderful people, and a humbling location

Hog Island, Muscongus Bay, Maine

The photos herein are mostly others' pictures shared amongst the SRR community. Thank you everyone for sharing. 
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Elyssa tied up on first night at Audubon docks, Hog Island.
Waiting for the "go" word from lead chase boat as all the boats get underway. This morning we were in rowing mode and hanging out with the rowers, my usual crowd.
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The fleet sets off with sails flying.

A typical lunch at the SRR. Boats galore!

Here is video shot as we beat out of a narrow channel in 15-20kts after lunch, day 1.

Going downwind afternoon day 2 in the Yawldory, wing-on-wing.
The downwind view from the Yawldory sitting in the bow seat at the end of day 2.


A great shot of the sleek and traditional, the 22' Yawldory.



Another favorite, the Myst by Don Kurylko.
Day 2 lunch spot and a napping participant. Can it get better?

The SRR participants are treated like royalty by the Hog staff and volunteers. Great food.

This is what every meal looks like, great food and great company.
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It's not all about boats (but almost). It is also about enjoying a walk around Hog Island, birding and breathing the same air the spruce, moss, and lichens breath.

We also do a lot of helping each other. Here I am caught in the act of discussing lug reefing with a fellow lug nut.
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A typical lunch stop (day 3) includes a skippers meeting and logistics to discuss the haul out procedures for 57 boats at one ramp in little Round Pond!

Heading back into camp.


A Caledonia Yawl being hauled in Round Pond on the last day.
A loon saying goodbye, until next year.

Sneaking up on Perfection

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For the first time in my short design-build career, I am finally in the stage I have longed for, that is, to be working on mk II and mk III+ versions of already successful boat models. Thus the blog title, "Sneaking up on Perfection". This is certainly the case with the Echo Bay Dory Skiff (EBDS), my first kit, based on a design a friend had drawn 26 year ago. I've built many Echo Bay's with families, corporate teams, and students. When it came time to start the kit business, it was obvious to begin with the EBDS. At that time, I had no idea how powerful 3D modeling programs could be and it didn't matter, I was a long way from knowing how to draw a line segment in 2-dimensions!

The original Echo Bay (left) at 26 years old and the mkIII version as a kit (right). 

The EBDS is the last of my boats to get modeled in the computer. After a couple weeks of side-work, I have just finished the new model. The improvements are:

  • improved sheer for aesthetics and sailing purposes
  • slightly longer (now 11' 10" LOA)
  • increased freeboard (about 1")
  • more interior options: enclosed plywood tanks for flotation and 2 different solid-wood thwart arrangements.
  • improved sprit sail shape and new lug rig option
  • dedicated oar plan for the EBDS
  • paper plans will be available as well as full size patterns (FSPs) and a plywood kit
The new lug rigged option

Next step is to break the model apart and develop the 2D geometry. I'll start by unrolling the planks and flattening the bulkheads, frames, and other hull structure. This process of generating 2D geometry takes very little time (maybe 2-3 hours). The time consuming part is drawing the plans for how to make these parts from scratch and drafting the construction drawings so she can be built as designed. This will take another couple weeks of side work. Then the CAD files for cutting on a CNC machine will need to be made, another couple days of side work. 

This model shows the standard solid wood thwart arrangement, but a plywood (flotation) tank option is a new addition.


Phew. A lot for a 12-footer. But on par for creating what will be the best 12-foot sail and oar skiff the market has seen for a long time, perhaps ever! But this photo shows why I do it: adventures with the kids.
A recent outing in the EBDS with the skipper (the one in the stern).



Morbihan 2011

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This video was made by Voiles et Voiliers in 2010 after my visit there to meet and sail with my friend Francois Vivier. 
We sailed from Pornichet to the Gulf of Morbihan in his 25' gaff-sloop called Pen Hir  
and for 3 days sailed in company with thousands of boats during Semaine du Gulfe Morbihan. It
is an experience I will never forget and I cannot wait to return. 

Enjoy! You will see me at about 4:00. I don't remember what I said; if you speak French you can remind me!
You will notice all the Vivier boats sailing everywhere. That was not staged...there were simply so many Vivier 
boats that we were able to see the entire design catalog sailing and rowing, from 12' dinghies to 50' traditional
yachts! 

Voiles et Voiliers 

La voile-aviron expliquée par François Vivierby voilesetvoiliers

How to Sail the Lug Yawl: REPOSTED

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My friend and fellow boatbuilder in the Northwest, James McMullen, created a very useful set of drawings to help people learn how to use our favorite sailing rig, the Lug-Yawl. For sail & oar boats you cannot have a more versatile and fun rig for your boat. Clint draws these rigs into most of his designs, such as the Calendar Islands Yawl or the Goat Island Skiff with a mizzen. Please look at these drawings and imagine how this rig could fit into your own sailing.






Now that you have seen these diagrams you can also see how useful the mizzen would be for switching from sailing to rowing and vice versa. While the mizzen is hauled in, the boat will keep herself pointing into the wind so the sail can be raised and lowered without filling and causing the boat to fall off one way or the other. I have found the mizzen useful for stopping and taking a break or for restowing gear or for dealing with safety matters. In these cases, it is best to learn to "heave-to" so that your boat doesn't lose too much ground. That is one drawback of lying head-to-wind under mizzen: you need to have plenty of leeway...no boats, rocks or land to get blown down upon. The advantage of heaving-to is that you don't lose too much ground at all. We make light, strong Birdsmouth masts and spars and have intimate knowledge of the Lug-Yawl.

A Deblois Street Dory

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to The Compass Project in Portland, Me is building a DSD with a group of kids and they are doing a great job.

The boat is built like dories have always been built, using the bottom to erect stem, frames, and transom, then turning over the boat upside down on a strongback. Everything is plumbed and braced then planking begins.

Here the garboard has been installed and the sheer clamp is being fit. This is the only departure from traditional dory construction, the incorporating of the clamp helps tie together the frames into plumb and lock in the ends of the boat. It is a bit of a 3D puzzle!

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